Day 5
So when we awoke in Barcelona we knew that trains in France were on strike. We knew there were a few trains here and there and we had a vague plan of what route to take. We could not have imagined the journey we were about to have.
We arrived at the station in Barcelona for our 7:15am train to Cerbere to find that our train would be stopping at Port Bou instead. This was one stop before Cerbere and the French border. At this point we had no choice but to get on the train and hope to find a solution at Port Bou.
The train ride was the start of many beautiful scenic routes we would take over the next few days, with great views of the sea and coast.
When we arrived in Port Bou there was nothing. No trains except back to Barcelona. A single person sat at a desk telling all the travellers there were no trains into France that day, so no solution for us yet.
Soon the station filled up with multiple travellers in the same boat as us, and when we spotted some follow interrailers we figured we should team up. 7 of us planned to share a taxi to the next stop, Cerbere in France, in the hopes that trains might be running there. It was all we could do. As we walked down to Port Bou the single taxi driver already had a full car but said he would come back for us. Port Bou was small and charming with few shops. Everyone seemed to know each other.
Once the taxi driver had relayed all of the stranded train passengers to Cerbere, we split up. Half went up the hill to the station to figure out what to do while the other half waited with the bags. As we arrived at the station we found no trains, no passengers, and one lady sat alone in a ticket office. She helped us plan a route which required us all to first catch a bus from Cerbere to Perpignan, and then to catch a train from there.
As we got back down the hill more interrailers had arrived via the Port Bou taxi driver, he made a fortune from the strikes that day. We relayed our info and then had almost 2 hours until the bus would arrive.
While we waited for the bus, the group set up in a restaurant sitting out on the terrace, with beers and tapas. The restaurant had wifi which we used to help plan other routes and check cancellations. All the locals were trying to help, and the lady at the restaurant was great.
When a bus finally came at 1:30pm, the Frenchman was upset that he was about to fill up his bus at the first stop. He told us to wait for the train replacement bus at 2pm, and off he drove without us. Megan and I decided to skim stones in the sea while we waited, and we paddled in the water a little too.
2pm turned into 2:30pm and no bus. We knew the next local bus was at 5pm and began to expect the worst. Many of us would miss the train we'd planned to catch if nothing happened soon.
At 2:45pm a bus showed up. Not our bus though, a local one that had just finished its route. The lady who worked at the restaurant came out to see us all still waiting, and when she found out what happened she spoke to the bus driver for us. Some how through some crazy luck he volunteered to drive us all direct to Perpignan, which was about an hour away. We were saved.
When we arrived at Perpignan we thought we were set. We would all be catching the train to Avignon and then change for a train to Marseille. When we arrived though we were quickly told there weren't trains leaving Avignon. We were stuck again and the only solution was an 8pm direct train to Marseille, a 4 hour wait.
As we queued to reserve a seat on the direct train we tried to look out the window to Perpignan and make a plan for dinner. The queue was long and we were wiped out. Behind us near the back of the queue were some other members of our new group who looked the same. As a helper approached them they explained where we were trying to go, I could just about overhear. The lady perked up, she said to get the Avignon train to Montpellier, then to Marseille. It turned out we could make the final train as it was delayed. A miracle.
We all ran from the queue to catch the train leaving in moments. It was a huge gamble but we just went for it. Luckily we caught it, and arrived in Montpellier soon after.
Montpellier station was full of people trying to get to Marseille, Cannes, or Nice. Some helpers were giving out free drinks, and we had 30 minutes to wait for the delayed train. We ate dinner on the platform, pasta bowls we could heat in the shop microwave. It was heaven.
When we finally made it to Marseille we were relieved, but we still had to find the hostel and it was 9pm. Walking was no longer an option and so we had to get a taxi. In the cab we realised Marseille was much bigger than we'd thought, with a lot more bars. We also quickly learned that France was playing football that night.
Once we dropped our things at the hostel (up 4 floors of stairs) we went for a walk around the harbour before we lost the light. As France scored a wave of cheers emerged from each bar around us, cars beeped their horns and people whistled. It was so noisy and the atmosphere was great. There were small market stalls and some buildings had been nicely lit in the darkness.
We soon headed back for a well earned sleep, relieved to finally be off the trains.
Day 6
Unfortunately we would be back on trains the next day. We had until 12:30 to start a new journey to Milan.
That morning we walked up to Marseilles Notre Dame, on a big hill overlooking the city. It was a great view, especially early in the morning. On the walk back down the hill we grabbed Pain au Chocolate and a baguette for breakfast, and we finished our walk around the harbour. They were selling freshly caught fish which some people in the hostel had bought to make fish soup. They were Italian (not the fish, the fish soup cooks). The fish were still breathing as they prepared them I might add, or trying to breathe at least.
We skipped the taxi as we discovered a Metro train could take us to the station. Then once again we were sat at a station waiting for trains.
Luckily with the experience from the day before we were better prepared to face the strikes. Also the strikes seemed to be finishing, and so the journey was much more smooth, but just as beautiful. Nice and Cannes and Monaco are definitely on the 'places to go if I can ever afford it' list. We still arrived in Milan late, but at least we'd got to spend the morning actually seeing Marseille.
When we arrived in Milan it was late and we had to make it across town before check-in closed. Once we'd finally found the place and checked in we needed to eat. We were starving and it was 10pm. We eventually found a nearby pizza place and ate. It was good.
Day 7
Since we were so far behind schedule due to the French trains we only had the morning in Milan. We checked out the Duomo, another fancy cathedral, and a castle that was nearby. In the end we spent most of our time in a park and watched a fun run take place. We were sick of cathedrals and arcs de Triomphes and columns. All the places were starting to seem the same, and so we couldn't wait to be on our way to Rome.
Our train to Rome left at 1pm, and so we enjoyed the chance to relax and see the beautiful views from the train of Bologna and Florence on the way.
- Evie
1) Dogs are allowed everywhere- on trains, in restaurants, it seems like almost everyone owns a dog. It is fantastic.
2) Navigating through Italy has been so much easier than it was in France.
3) At restaurants, I haven't figured out a 'go-to' drink yet. My default for the past 22 years has been water, but if I order that now, I have no idea what kind of water I'm going to get.
4) It's crazy how there can be places like Monte Carlo, then 2 train stops away can be so poor and rundown.
5) It's very easy to tell which building is the church in every town we pass. Though they are always beautifully built, it always makes me wonder how much it cost, and if the townspeople had to go without because of it.
6) Apparently you are not allowed to enter some religious sites, like the Duomo, in shorts.
7) Trains are a great place to catch up on my reading, my kindle is finally getting some use.
8) So far, I've seen lots of hills, but very few mountains.
9) Pretty much anything tastes amazing after traveling for 9 hours without eating (it could not be helped Mom, sorry).
10) I am very, very excited for the food in Italy. These next few days will be filled with spaghetti, pizza, and gelato-- mostly gelato.
-Meg